Newtonian (il piano è di usarlo per l'astrofotografia ?!)

I am building something quite like this but I am using 3D printed gearboxes for a total reduction of 720:1 (1 rotation in the az or el plane gives 720 turns of the 600 p/r encoders)Here's the gearbox: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3079719It's 60:1 but I am also running two seperate GT belts and pulleys on each axis past the gearboxes both to give a final reduction of 720:1 and to bring the 600 p/r encoders up to sync at 720 p/r.

After everything is set up, click to upload the code (Sketch > Upload). So, each time that one of this pins changes his state (meaning the encoder has moved), this special pin (through the interrupt) activate a special piece of code (ISP - Interrupt Service Routine). Comunque vogliamo fare questo telecomando, sia via wifi o bluetooth. Ci sono due canali per ogni encoder (canali A e B); Ogni canale può passare tra ON e OFF (0 o 1) mentre si ruota l'encoder. Confirm the baud rate (should be 9600bps.. only..).If the problem persists, you can try to debug, first using the arduino (send some Serial.print with position, ...). In questo modo, puoi posizionare e rimuovere le ruote e gli encoder dal tuo telescopio e, alla fine, il tuo telescopio sarà esattamente lo stesso telescopio che hai acquistato (eccetto un minuscolo e impercettibile 4 fori …). The gears are here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16627Can anyone point out the code modification to go from 15:1 to 720:1?Below is a pic of the inside of my base cradle.

That means your code is compiled and uploaded into your Arduino. Well don't worry... that's because your location and local sideral time (LST) are not the correct ones! By default, the telescope should be aligned to north (0º azimuth) and leveled horizontally (0º altitude) before connecting to Stellarium. Do you see it? Recently, I bought a 8″ Newtonian telescope that came with a Dobsonian mount. As you can imagine, if at certain moment you are pointing to one object using a certain coordinate, after a few minutes, you need to recalibrate your coordinates because the object has moved, so, altazimuth coordinates are time dependent.

That happens that the sky is "alive" and seems to move around continually. Se la tua cinghia di distribuzione ha un diverso perimetro, puoi trovare il diametro del cerchio (d) facendo: d = P / pi. I also added two steppers to move.How i wondering if somebody has used a real time module on the due to avoid LST change to program.If there is somebody with info i shoud be happy when he would share it.thanks and RegardsLeen de Ridder Holland, 5 months ago

Ecco una spiegazione molto piccola: La tecnica: Per evitare di perdere gli impulsi (perché il codice impiega un po 'di tempo per essere eseguito …), ho usato alcuni pin e funzioni speciali su Arduino: interrupt. Don't have an account? The Stellarium plugin works just fine with the LX200 protocol. After the paint dry, install the timing belt again and it´s done!

Astro Publishing Ltd, registered as a limited company in England and Wales under company number: 12023963. Instead building a pillow block to hold the bearing, you can buy a cheap pillow block bearing from ebay.

to create a coordinate system. It's a very useful tool used to convert any telescope into a push-to telescope, keeping it with a very low budget. That happens that the sky is "alive" and seems to move around continually. Tuttavia, ti guiderò su come iniziare da zero! Sentiti libero di usare i materiali che desideri (o che hai già) e le dimensioni che meglio si adattano al tuo telescopio e al tuo supporto. In questo modo, credo di poter evitare carichi indesiderati sugli encoder (che possono causare danni) rendendo più fluide tutte le operazioni meccaniche. Selezionare, sotto la scheda "Strumenti", la scheda (Arduino DUE - Porta di programmazione) e la porta che si sta utilizzando. encoder 1, channel A - connected to pin 2, encoder 1, channel B - connected to pin 3, encoder 2, channel A - connected to pin 5, encoder 2, channel B - connected to pin 4. It's a very useful tool used to convert any telescope into a push-to telescope, keeping it with a very low budget.

import ui.icons_set_rc Remove the timing belt and finish your work with a layer of black paint around the plywood. As I told before, I'm using this Arduino for other purposes, so ignore all the extra wires and components you see from the pictures above - you will not need them!

Per garantire una maggiore stabilità, ho tagliato e incollato un cerchio più piccolo (circa 20 mm di raggio più piccolo) (controlla le immagini sopra) realizzato in compensato da 5 mm. It can cause you irreversible blindness. That is called a. It's quite easy to load the code into your Arduino.

Quelle ruote dentate saranno attaccate e fissate alla montatura e sarà responsabile di guidare gli encoder, mentre si gira il telescopio (azimut) e su / giù (altitudine). Correggili passando i fili corrispondenti su Arduino o, semplicemente, cambiando il codice e caricandolo di nuovo (vedi immagine). Ora che abbiamo installato le ruote, dobbiamo trovare un modo per posizionare e guidare gli encoder.

Do you see it? However, because of my electrical background and because I like to consider myself hobbyist, my first thought was: - I can (and I will) build a DIY controller for my telescope. Innanzitutto ho potuto collegare direttamente gli encoder al telescopio. The 2 channels are not in phase. In my case, I have a 600 pulses encoder and a mechanical gear ratio of 15 times. To prevent gluing the belt, I let it really tight around the plywood. You only need to set up you latitude. I used 5 pieces of 3mm plywood glued together to make a 16x14x5 (cm) box, as you can check from the pictures above.

Sposta il tuo telescopio intorno e su / giù. Deep Hole in a Small Box, a Different Take on the Infinity Mirror. After you build the box, just place the Arduino and secure it with some hot glue or even some small screws. To have the best result, start to cut a slight bigger circle and then sand it until the timing belt can enter. Please ignore them! Check the box to activate the plugin. Per farlo in modo sicuro, collega il filo rosso degli encoder al pin + 5V Arduino e il filo nero a terra. Quindi, usando il file "config.h", imposta quanti impulsi hai a turno e poi moltiplica per 4.

I want to implement with a gps 6 and rtc. I think the ultimate telescope control project based around either an Arduino or Raspberry Pi is still a little way off, but this certainly has some promise. La longitudine sarà calcolata tramite AR e H. Per impostare la posizione e l'ora, segui i passaggi descritti nelle immagini sopra. Development of this site was supported under grant DRL-1516703 awarded to Arizona State University and SciStarter. Hi Nelson,Sorry to have taken so long to respond. The same way, use the existing bolt at the bottom of the mount and install the azimuth wheel on it. Because the GT2 timing belt have a 600mm perimeter, you should draw a circle with a 95,5mm radius (or 191mm diameter). Puoi farlo facilmente puntando il cannocchiale sulla stella polare (0º nord aprox.) Go to the configuration window and choose the "plugins" tab. It should be easy and fast to install and uninstall it (to transport and pack up easily). Complete your mission and you'll earn a SciStarter certificate. Select, under the "tools" tab, the board (Arduino DUE - Programming port) and the port that you are using.

Compra un telescopio goto e vedrai il tuo problema risolto! Use the "config.h" file to make your changes. quindi chiedendo se hai già provato a scattare foto con il tempo di esposizione diciamo più di 20 secondi. Tra le altre cose, puoi personalizzare alcune funzioni di visualizzazione. What are the changes to the code that has to be made when used in Southern Hemisphere?RegardsCham, Question To learn more about coordinate systems, positional astronomy or LST, you can go here, here and here... Hope you are already familiar with arduino, but if you aren't, please, don't worry - there is a lot of information you can get on-line. Stellarium is a really nice software for astronomy. It can cause you irreversible blindness. C'è un ritardo di 90º tra di loro.

In realtà, tutte le stelle descrivono una circonferenza centrata sulla stella polare. Try to make the circle as perfect as you can! Connect the USB cable to your computer and open the code (see attachments). Un grande grazie !!

It will have the same name you gave before...! Facendo questo, ho anche aumentato la portabilità di tutto - dovrebbe essere più facile posizionare e rimuovere le ruote dentate, tirando indietro l'encoder. That means I will have 9000 pulses by turn. Finalmente, sei pronto per connettere il tuo telescopio a Stellarium! Stellarium is an open source project with a lot of helpful astronomy features, including a plugin that allow a connection between a computer and a telescope controller (like celestron, meade or sky-watcher). I'm using the version 1.6.8, but others should work as well (just in case, try not to use some older versions). Perché abbiamo bisogno di leggere 2 assi (altitudine e azimut), abbiamo bisogno di costruire 2 ruote. Install the altitude wheel directly to the telescope, using the existing bolt. Questo è un semplice passaggio che ti guiderà a costruire una ruota dentata da una cinghia di distribuzione. Screw the holders to the telescope's mount and then install the encoders.

Perché costruire un ingranaggio? In realtà siamo bloccati ad interfacciare il nostro telescopio con stellarium e fortunatamente abbiamo trovato il tuo articolo. This holes must have the same diameter as the existing bolts, so, I drilled a 6mm hole from the altitude whell and 10mm hole from the azimuth wheel. A general scheme of the project would be the following: Regarding the hardware, the previous image only shows a first functional prototype.

It will be the serial port that your computer associates with Arduino. Just drill a hole at each corner to screwing it. Be sure the code files (NF_v1.ino and config.h) are inside a folder with the same name ("NF_v1"). Hai solo bisogno di impostare la tua latitudine. Ora, la parte complicata … Ogni montatura dobsoniana (o altazimutale) usa due assi (altitudine e azimut, come dovresti già sapere!) Because Stellarium, through the LX200 protocol, only can read equatorial coordinates, I had to find a way to convert the readings from the telescope (altazimuth) to the equatorial coordinate system.

Un messaggio "Caricamento completato" verrà visualizzato, dopo alcuni istanti, nella parte inferiore dello schermo.

Make a tour and learn how to use it!

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